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  • Battery for ARB Dual Battery Tray

    G'day all,

    Ive got an ARB tray installed in the car and had a Supercharge N70L Allrounder battery in there (105ah). I had the Redarc BCDC set to calcium and was recently told that thats no good (despite the battery being calcium) because it runs the voltage too high given the heat of the engine bay. Either that or being flogged by the Engel has caused it to die.

    Just wondering what other batteries people have in the ARB tray. I was looking at the Century N70 Deep Cycle but I'm not sure the maintenance ports would clear the central bracket? Also need a LH terminal battery ideally which they don't do.

    I've heard of some running Optimas but they seem way too small capacity wise (55 is the biggest that fits I think).

    Otherwise I'll have to stick to the Supercharge I guess? Anyone care to list any alternatives?

    Cheers!

  • #2
    If you mount the bcdc charger in a spot under the bonnet where it gets hot means that the charger will reduce its power output so I don’t see why that would kill the battery? If your Engel fridge has drained it (your auxiliary battery) flat a couple of times then that would more then likely caused the damage. AGM batteries don’t like discharging more then 50% without a charge soon after

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    • #3
      Yeah, you're absolutely right. I moved the BCDC to a cool spot in front of the radiator. I think it was over discharged a few times with the BCDC throttling while the Engel and other things were drawing current. I had it tested recently at Battery World and they reckoned it was OK - I suspect the load test may have been the final straw!

      Anyone got a non-LH terminal battery installed? The ARB tray instructions specify LH only but I don't suppose it would matter much?

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      • #4
        Mine's an Optima 55ah deep cycle. Second one in the car as the first was replaced under warranty... one cell was dead off the shelf when purchased. Mine has the + terminal on the right & the - on the left as your looking at it. Personally I think the 55 isn't enough but that's what ARB installed when the did up my aux battery system. I'll go an 85 amp Century deep cycle in the near future.

        Not that I know about electrical things, but I think the + terminal being on the left is further away from the body of the car, & I think, less chance of perhaps arcing or accidentally touching the metal of the car should the battery bracket become loose when off roading.

        Due to the shape of the car & battery tray positioning, its the - terminal closer to metal.... just a personal thing with me.

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        • #5
          I think youre right Anthony. The positive in the rear would be mighty close to the body. Ive only found the Supercharge Allrounder (MRV70L) and the Century Overlander 4x4 (N70ZZLXHD). I'm leaning toward the Century as both are hybrids (deep cycle and cranking) but the Century is maintainable. $285. Both 100AH. Sucks there aren't many Deep Cycle flooded batteries available with reversed terminals.

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          • #6
            if the positive terminal is well insulated there will be little chance of arcing against the body. I personally like a battery with conventional terminals so that you can swap it into the main battery slot in an emergency. the factory cabling is too short to swap ends over.
            2016 GX , in White

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            • #7
              I've found the following for anyone interested :

              Century 70ZZLXHD Hybrid 100AH $289
              Supercharge MRV70L Hybrid 100AH $285
              Delkor Deep Cycle HDC27L 100AH $245

              I'm thinking of going for the Delkor given its the only true Deep Cycle albeit Maintenance Free.

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              • #8
                Have you guys thought about running your auxiliary deep cycle battery in the boot? you can fit a much larger capacity as i believe 100AH is very small although it does depend on your needs. I have a 150AH lithium battery in the boot and I'm planning on getting a hybrid secondary battery under the bonnet purely to use for jump starts and winching using a momentary switch via the redarc SBI12 isolator

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                • Spook1205
                  Spook1205
                  Senior Member
                  Spook1205 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I like that idea of fitting one in the boot

                • DaveC
                  DaveC
                  Senior Member
                  DaveC commented
                  Editing a comment
                  150Ah lithium! Crikey, that's like having 3x 100Ah deep-cycle batteries (for the size/weight of one)! Must have cost you a pretty penny no doubt..

                • borgna
                  borgna
                  Senior Member
                  borgna commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Yer absolutely it cost a fortune but the benefits are quite nice for the amount of camping I do with the accessories I like run

              • #9
                Sorry to hear about the All-Rounder, I had a great run with one in my previous car (it was the only battery, starter and ran a fridge!). As far as I know, its still in use by the new owner..

                Regarding the calcium cycle, I was told the same by a bloke at the "battery factory" in Canberra, he suggested the wet cycle would make the battery last longer, citing possible overheating/venting with the calcium cycle under the bonnet). He suggested that I could occasionally change cycles to get a deeper charge if I wanted to. My charger is a Projecta IDC25 which has a temperature probe that I have bolted to the negative accessory post of the battery. Is the Redarc the same? Surely then the charger and battery don't have to be adjacent for the charger to perform temperature compensation properly? FWIW, I have a neuton power 105Ah 'deep cycle' (really a calcium hybrid like the allrounder). It was recommended as a cheaper alternative, and the battery factory bloke seemed pretty keen on them. It's at least 18mnths old now, so far so good.

                Dave

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                • #10
                  A guy I spoke to today reckon the Allrounder were fantastic until they changed factories a couple of years ago. Not sure if thats sales spin though. Battery in the boot would be good aside from the fact my boots already fuller than a seaside dunny on boxing day. I'd be lucky to get a AAA in there. You'd need some meaty cable too for that length.

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                  • #11
                    You only have to run one 6 b&s cable to the back if your dc charger is in the back as well which I done and I get the full 30amps charge

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                    • Spook1205
                      Spook1205
                      Senior Member
                      Spook1205 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      DC charger in the back would definitely stop the voltage drop down the cable.

                      Just had thoughts that it would be easy to get a Prius hybrid battery and strip it down to individual cells. Connect required cells in series to get 12v then bank those packs in parallel. Normally if a hybrid battery goes its cause one cell has died so you can just throw that away and use good cells.
                      I have pulled them apart and tested cells before so I know it’s not hard to do.

                      Thoughts?

                  • #12
                    I think the Prius uses Ni-Cd or Ni-Mh don't they? I don't think the typical automotive DCDC chargers we use would have a cycle for that. It's also inferior to the lithium (LiFe4Po) borgna has. But I guess if you have access to the cells for cheap (or free!) and know how to charge em safely it could work.

                    Dave.

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                  • #13
                    Just on a slight side note check the main wiring harness at the back of the battery, with an N70 it will rub through it if not installed correctly

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