Second Battery Installation

[wodens]

Hi. All
Am looking at the possibility of routing 6B&S Cable behind glove box and into engine bay to connect to starter battery and wondering if anyone has drilled any holes or discovered any blank rubber grommets in the bulkhead. I'm installing a Redarc dcdc battery charger. behind passenger seat.
Gordon

[Anthony]

I wasn't keen on drilling holes, so I used an old 60cm long house hold piece of earth wire I had (being fairly rigid) & poked it through the inside of the car behind the glove box where the engine wires are, out into the engine bay. Then used electrical tape to tie my 6mm twin core cable to it from the engine bay side, back through into the cabin. Then wired up what I needed to do.

[White One]

yep that engine ECU grommet is the best place. it appears to be a 3 layer grommet so use something sharp that wont damage wiring to make the initial poke , i used a wood skewer followed by thin wire followed by a 7 core trailer cable. Havent done the dual battery isolator yet but will use the same technique when i do.

[wodens]

Thanks guys utilizing the existing grommet sounds good to me. I'll give it a go
Gordon.

[White One]

larger wires can be difficult to feed through so lubricate them with something first. not WD40 , just use water if silicon spray is not available.

[wodens]

Hi.
Just found your message. Have succeeded in pulling through 2x 6B&S and connected to starter battery.
Have wired in Redarc BCDC charger connected to 80 and 120 deep cycle battery.
Thanks for help.
Gordon.

[Hylife]

The two main large rubber grommets (one each side of engine bay) have smaller nipples that are designed specifically to have their ends cut off for accessory wiring such as this.

Remember guys and gals, there is no need to run TWO heavy duty wires, anywhere.
As the entire body and chassis is the negative rail, you only need to run a heavy duty positive wire. A short negative wire can be run to the nearest place you can bolt it to the body or chassis.

[White One]

Ive finally installed an Ironman 40A DCDC unit , on a custom bracket just in front of the battery. this unit is a bit more complex as it includes a jump start solenoid ( 80A booster ) and the associated wiring. I needed an Ignition feed which i found in the small fusebox just on the left of the glovebox. mine had a spare 15A position reserved for seat heater , which is used a piggyback fuse on.
i mounted the solenoid on a custom bracket just above the intercooler pipe behind the left headlight.

the unit works great - it has a dash status LED , auto jump start , selectable charge / no charge , selectable battery chemistry and is nice and compact. does not seem to be 100% waterproof so added some silicone around the base and wiring grommet. bit exe at $425 but cheaper than others with less features.

[Wiza]

Has anyone used the Altenator Booster Diode from Sidewinder to deal with the smart altenator issue whilst installing a dual battery?

Main in difference is that fuse size. Sidewinder doesn't do the Diode in a super mini blade fuse, only in the mini blade fuse. Can you use a mini in a super mini fuse slot?

[White One]

that diode trick does not work on the 1GD motor , the alt is fully controlled by the engine ECU . Directly after the engine starts the alternator voltage is 14.1 V but then it very quickly drops and is pegged to 13.6V . It might be possible to modify the alternators output using the Techsteam software but no-one has done it as yet. 13.6V will charge the main battery ok but its not enough to fully charge a second.

[Wiza]

Thanks mate. i appreciate the feedback

[johton1971]

I think I will look at a Redarc BCDC 1225 LV unit mounted in the engine bay or rear compartment and then a portable battery pack for the second battery. My diesel water watch unit is very close to the second battery space and would be very hard to service - its a cramped space with all the controllers added etc. A battery pack seems a bit more flexible at camps and when the fridge is off loaded and solar powered as well... Just need to find more space in the back...

Taking Hylife's advice, I also only installed a single core fused positive cable from main battery to the back passenger side tool compartment and a short negative to body - not had a full fridge load on the circuit but will measure the voltage drop when I do this. The voltage reads same as main battery or just 0.01V less. Seems pretty good....
J

[White One]

ive also fitted a primary filter next to the battery - its not too difficult to access as both the factory and aftermarket filters lift up and out when service is required. the rubber fuel lines are long enough to do this.
there is space in front of the battery for a DCDC unit as well.