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  • ARB or Pirahna Battery tray ?

    Hi All,
    Been thinking about fitting a dual battery system to my GXL, so went into local Toyota dealer today to get a price on the Toyota dual battery kit (p/n PZQ85-89560), only to be told that Toyota have put a stop on selling them since last year due to structual issues with the battery tray. Bloke also told me that they're not selling the pnp wiring part of the kit either.
    So that leaves me with having to make up my own system.............
    So to start, which is the better battery tray to get, the ARB version (4214070) or Pirahna version (BTH15) ?

  • #2
    I've been wanting to ask this for some time, also considering Basha and Grunt trays, powder coat vs zinc coating. Which one do you prefer?

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    • #3
      ARB did my dual battery system & happy with it. The 55 amp deep cycle battery is too small for my liking, but the lack of under bonnet space is the reason for it. Will try & fit a larger battery once this one dies.

      Lots of outlets use ARB & Pirahna because they don;t make their own. Try looking at Opposite Lock, TJM, Iron Man etc etc. They may have they own style / shape which might differ slightly & suit you better.

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      • #4
        I used a Grunt tray , powdercoated cos i i dont remember seeing a zinc one for sale. Fitted it myself using a Nutsert tool for a couple of mounts but easy enough job. If you choose an N70 battery then you need to bend the front lip of the tray forward a bit to make the battery slide in easier. yes it is a tight fit but works ok. I used the Ironman 40A DCDC mounted on a custom bracket in front of the factory battery. The ARB trays mount the DCDC units at the side , next to the fuel filter but i didnt like it there it gets way to hot , and the units may shut down. I also fitted a solenoid for the automatic jump start function to work,
        2016 GX , in White

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        • #5
          I fitted the Piranah tray. Its very strong and has an extra brace to the fender to make sure it doesnt go any where. It installs in about 30 mins. You will need a nut sert gun to install it. I fitted a N70t Century 100Ah wet deep cycle battery. The engine bay reaches +85 degrees after about 15 mins driving so i went for a servicable style that would last in the harsh engine bay conditions. The battery tray also isnt rated for a heavy AGM battery. I installed an Intervolt DCDC 25A charger. I originally fitted this in the engine bay on the supplied Piranah bracket. But as mentioned the engine bay heats up too much and causes the DCDC charger thermal cut out to kick in and throttle back the charge. I have since run the charger under the passenger seat next to the Simoco SRM9000 two way radio body. It works a treat now.

          I would definatly recommend the same setup as its what i would spend my money on if i had to do it again.

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          • #6
            I modified a Supercheap auto battery tray. Just drill a couple of extra holes in the tray, and welded some spacers underneath. Bolts up to the factory holes. Has a N70 100ah marine battery (supposedly handles the bumps better than a normal deep cycle). Running a CTEK d250s Dual dc-dc charger with solar regulator (have a 150w panel on the roof)

            The main reason i went this route was because when i did the install, no company had designed a tray. And as i was heading away for a camping/fishing trip i needed something fast.

            At some stage i will take out the battery and inspect the tray to see how its going, i give the battery a shake now and then to see if its still firm and it all looks good.

            Comment


            • Macca
              Macca commented
              Editing a comment
              Hey deeman, I don't suppose you have any photos of your DIY battery tray?

              Cheers Macca.

          • #7
            Originally posted by John View Post
            I fitted the Piranah tray. Its very strong and has an extra brace to the fender to make sure it doesnt go any where. It installs in about 30 mins. You will need a nut sert gun to install it. I fitted a N70t Century 100Ah wet deep cycle battery. The engine bay reaches +85 degrees after about 15 mins driving so i went for a servicable style that would last in the harsh engine bay conditions. The battery tray also isnt rated for a heavy AGM battery. I installed an Intervolt DCDC 25A charger. I originally fitted this in the engine bay on the supplied Piranah bracket. But as mentioned the engine bay heats up too much and causes the DCDC charger thermal cut out to kick in and throttle back the charge. I have since run the charger under the passenger seat next to the Simoco SRM9000 two way radio body. It works a treat now.

            I would definatly recommend the same setup as its what i would spend my money on if i had to do it again.
            I like the look of the Pirahna tray with it's brace from the guard, but the need for a nutsert tool made me a bit hesitant. I did visit the local ARB outlet today and ARB trays are in short supply which I spose could be another reason to go for a Pirahna tray which seem to be more readily available. I read somewhere that the Pirahna tray is designed for the Exide LCS27-97 ($230) which are considerably cheaper than the Century N70ZZLXHD @ $300 that ARB recommended.

            I've had a look at chargers and leaning towards the Intervolt DCC Pro. From the above I assume that the Intervolt will bolt onto the side of the Pirahna tray by drilling a few appropriate mounting holes in the battery isolator bracket that comes with the tray ? It's not an ideal mounting location, but as most of my trips are into the Vic High Country, not a show stopper.

            Some other questions I have for the blokes that have built up their own dual battery systems are:
            What size cable would I run from the aux battery to the rear of the vehicle ? Just want to run a fridge, maybe some LED lights and my compressor which at a guess would be 50A tops..........
            Where do I route a cable from the aux battery to the rear of the vehicle ? Along the door sills or under the vehicle such as the chasis rails..........







            Comment


            • #8
              I ran a 16mm sq double insulated cable under the car along the chassis rails , from the aux battery to an Anderson plug on the towbar. This has a 50A fuse and will be used for running my boat winch and air compressor. From this cable i tapped off a 6mm lead which runs into the rear jack area for my Engel. The 6mm wiring is run through the same grommets as the towbar wiring. If you were running a fridge alone 6mm will be fine but for compressors you want something slightly larger preferably becuase of the voltage drop.
              2016 GX , in White

              Comment


              • DaveC
                DaveC commented
                Editing a comment
                I found this recently:
                http://www.arkcorp.com.au/p/3450/fsp7ab
                I'm tempted to do a heavy cable run under the car now just to mount that connector for my compressor. I don't even tow anything, but it would be a neat solution!

                Was it difficult to route the cable under the car?

            • #9
              There's a bit of info in this thread, including my own setup (in post #45 on page3):
              https://www.fortunerforum.com.au/for...y-battery-tray

              My system described there has been working great for the last 6mnths, though it hasn't been too stressed (probably haven't had the fridge running for more than about 48hrs without driving).

              I chose the piranha tray due to the upper brace which makes the whole thing very solid, luckily I was able to borrow a nutsert gun to do the job.

              To run power to the fridge, I ran a single run of red cable marked "25A" from jaycar (dont know the AWG guage sorry) from the accessory fuse box, through the grommet in the firewall, and right down the left-hand side trim (under door kick panels etc). Earth is picked up from an existing point behind big LHS panel in the boot. Not terribly difficult, it runs alongside existing cables most of the way. A set of trim removal tools from supercheap are handy. If you look at the instructions for the official towbar harness, it runs the same way (see toyotamanuals website, referenced elseware in this forum).

              Dave

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              • #10
                its easy to run cables under the car , there is plenty of room along the chassis and plenty of places to use cable ties. allow a bit of slack at either end which you can loop and leave in place.
                2016 GX , in White

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                • #11
                  Originally posted by White One View Post
                  its easy to run cables under the car , there is plenty of room along the chassis and plenty of places to use cable ties. allow a bit of slack at either end which you can loop and leave in place.
                  Thanks, Did you run earth also, or pick it up at the rear? Is there an existing earth terminal on the exterior of the car?, or did you run it through the grommet into the boot?

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    I picked up both earths at the rear. for the 16mm cable i found a bolt somewhere and for the 6mm there is a 10mm bolt next to the jack. the 6mm runs alongside the trailer harness into the car using the existing grommets.
                    2016 GX , in White

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      I had mine DBS installed at Battery World, cost smack on $1500. I'm using Piranha Battery Tray, with an 75 AH Century as they couldn't get the 100 A/H to fit..Well they could, but they said "You'll never get it out".
                      Got 3 points (1 Anderson to Tow point, 2 internal and Voltmeter. Also got solar input wired up).
                      CTEK D250S DCDC mounted under the passenger seat.

                      I really rate the Piranha battery tray. Fits well and is very well made, no signs of corrosion or rust.
                      No movement whatsoever from the tray or the battery.
                      Hope this helps

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                      • #14
                        As a starting point I've got a Pirahna tray and an Intervolt DCC Pro coming. Once I have the tray and Intervolt charger mounted, I'll have to design the cabling around what space I have to work with.

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                        • #15
                          Got the ARB Hilux tray ($195.00).
                          Got a Century Deep Cycle Flooded N70T 100AH battery (can top up when they dry out from engine bay heat up north.($199.00).
                          To get a full charge that the smart alternator won't provide I am using a Ridge Ryder 20amp DC-DC charger ($160.00) fitted under front passenger seat (have had two DC-DC chargers fail in the engine bay heat).
                          Ran 6 gauge wire from crank battery positive through firewall, under sill covers, to charger and back to aux batt. Body is common negative ($20.00).
                          Ran 6 gauge wire from aux batt to cargo area ($20.00) and a Narva power socket ($10.00)

                          Runs the 50 litre Waeco clone fridge set as a freezer at -15C eco mode for 4 days before the fridge disconnects at 11.2 volts. Charging is simply starting the engine or plugging in a portable solar panel and the Ridge Ryder DC-DC charger also acts as a battery isolator once the crank battery gets to 12.5 volts so I never have to worry about not being able to start the engine.

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