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some notes about self-installing a towbar

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  • some notes about self-installing a towbar

    Picked up my new GX yesterday , and when seeking options i chose for them to supply the towbar and i'll fit myself. I did this for 2 reasons really - I wanted to remove the third row seats anyway ( one has to come out to install the wiring ) , and I needed to run extra wiring to the back of the car anyway.
    I was quoted $300 to install the towbar and wiring , which is about 3 hours work all up. Took me longer than that but next time will be easier. It weighs 35Kg and comes in a huge box , separate to the wiring and ECU loom.

    The towbar instructions are from the Toyota website - https://toyotamanuals.com.au/accessories. enter part no PZQ6489155 to bring up the PDF..
    The instructions are ok but to avoid confusion its best to note a few extra details-

    step 1 - while loosening the mudflap its best to remove it completely to make removal and refitting the bumper easier.
    step 3 - start at the edges under the tail lights first , the bumper edge is held in tightly by a plastic grip which does not remove easily. Lift / peel bumper outwards to separate the edge from the body.
    step 4 - if you dont have park assist then remove all 3 bumper support brackets and skip step 5
    step 7 - if doing the job by yourself , then support the towbar ends on some crates or something , that way you wont have to lift it so far to offer it up to the body
    step 8 - when inserting the side shims , wedge a lever in between the towbar and the chassis which makes shim installation easier. Bend the end of the shim tab slightly so you can grip it with pliers.
    step 10 - this is where you use the paper template to cut the bumper to fit the towbar. Measure everything 5 times or more before cutting , and mark the centreline of the bumper before you start. Drill the holes first and keep the bumper FLAT , on a carpeted surface to avoid scratches . Fold the template at the bottom line and tape this to the edge of the bumper . Confirm location of the garnish panel before you cut using a small jigsaw.
    step 11 - again measure the width of the garnish panel and cut the lower section so a few mm is hidden under the garnish panel.
    step 19 - good luck drilling and inserting the small knock pins which are supplied. best leaving the shims loose prior to inserting the tongue.

    You need to buy your own towball and rated shackles , these are not included in the kit.

    For the wiring loom insructions, enter part number PZQ61 - 89160F1 at https://toyotamanuals.com.au/accessories to bring up the PDF.
    The factory harness comes with the ECU and has each circuit downstream of the ECU fused to protect the ECU.
    The bumper , L/H seat and trim panels need to be removed so do this in conjunction with the towbar install.

    step 10 - prise the side panel away very carefully to avoid breaking it. Make sure all the white clips come off with the panel
    step 12- if you install the ECU in the location shown then the side panel will go in ok , otherwise the wiring will foul. The ECU is used to power the trailer lights directly. Connecting trailer lights direct to the lights on modern cars will result in toasting the body's ECU , which is big $$$ to replace.
    step 15 - dont remove the B pillar plastic panel , there is enough room under it to run the cabling.
    step 19 - this is a tricky one. The connector secondary lock is the same color plastic as the connector , and this must be lifted / removed before removing the pin no.5 . it took me ages to see it and i only found it by looking and comparing the new connector shell supplied in the packet. You need a very small sharp screwdriver to remove the connector lock. Once this is lifted by a few mm the pins can be removed.
    step 25 - they dont supply a guide wire as described , you can use a piece of stiff stranded wire about 40cm long .The new orange wire and its cover are a bit large to fit into the access port , so lubricate with water or vaseline to ensure it goes in and you dont lose the draw wire.
    step 29 - they supplied me the wrong bracket and trailer connector so i ended up screwing my 7 pin flat connector to the bracket before fitting. Use of the flat 7 pin will allow you to connect an aftermarket trailer loss alarm to the car - there is a magnet and reed switch built into the base and cover lid , connected to 2 extra pins at the sides.

    While all the interior panels were removed i ran some extra wires to the back of the car from the glovebox-

    1 - a 6mm wire which i will use for adding a fridge socket , and for powering some camping lights.
    2 - a 4mm wire which i will use for powering the trailer brakes. this will attach to the Blue wire in the trailer harness
    3 - a 7 core trailer cable , which i will use for powering relays for lights , reverse beeper , etc. With this cable I connected one of its wires to the brake light wire so i can use it to trigger the electric brake controller under the dash. You can pick up the brake signal from the junction box somewhere but i dont know where. Doing it this way will ensure that is wire is protected by the inline fuses fitted to the factory harness and the lights will not interfere with the trailer sway function.

    any questions just ask

    Last edited by White One; 13-10-2016, 03:41 PM.
    2016 GX , in White

  • #2
    Great post mate! I'm picking up my glx tomorrow from tbe dealer and will follow the same path, I confess that I'm a little worried about doing this job myself, hopefully everything will be ok!

    Comment


    • #3
      take your time and you should be ok. cutting the bumper to install the garnish is the worst part. the bumper flexes a lot so its hard to cut it properly. as i mentioned , check and measure 5 times before cutting it , there are no second chances !!
      2016 GX , in White

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by White One View Post
        Picked up my new GX yesterday , and when seeking options i chose for them to supply the towbar and i'll fit myself. I did this for 2 reasons really - I wanted to remove the third row seats anyway ( one has to come out to install the wiring ) , and I needed to run extra wiring to the back of the car anyway.
        I was quoted $300 to install the towbar and wiring , which is about 3 hours work all up. Took me longer than that but next time will be easier. It weighs 35Kg and comes in a huge box , separate to the wiring and ECU loom.

        The towbar instructions are from the Toyota website - https://toyotamanuals.com.au/accessories. enter part no PZQ6489155 to bring up the PDF..
        The instructions are ok but to avoid confusion its best to note a few extra details-

        step 1 - while loosening the mudflap its best to remove it completely to make removal and refitting the bumper easier.
        step 3 - start at the edges under the tail lights first , the bumper edge is held in tightly by a plastic grip which does not remove easily. Lift / peel bumper outwards to separate the edge from the body.
        step 4 - if you dont have park assist then remove all 3 bumper support brackets and skip step 5
        step 7 - if doing the job by yourself , then support the towbar ends on some crates or something , that way you wont have to lift it so far to offer it up to the body
        step 8 - when inserting the side shims , wedge a lever in between the towbar and the chassis which makes shim installation easier. Bend the end of the shim tab slightly so you can grip it with pliers.
        step 10 - this is where you use the paper template to cut the bumper to fit the towbar. Measure everything 5 times or more before cutting , and mark the centreline of the bumper before you start. Drill the holes first and keep the bumper FLAT , on a carpeted surface to avoid scratches . Fold the template at the bottom line and tape this to the edge of the bumper . Confirm location of the garnish panel before you cut using a small jigsaw.
        step 11 - again measure the width of the garnish panel and cut the lower section so a few mm is hidden under the garnish panel.
        step 19 - good luck drilling and inserting the small knock pins which are supplied. best leaving the shims loose prior to inserting the tongue.

        You need to buy your own towball and rated shackles , these are not included in the kit.

        For the wiring loom insructions, enter part number PZQ61 - 89160F1 at https://toyotamanuals.com.au/accessories to bring up the PDF.
        The factory harness comes with the ECU and has each circuit downstream of the ECU fused to protect the ECU.
        The bumper , L/H seat and trim panels need to be removed so do this in conjunction with the towbar install.

        step 10 - prise the side panel away very carefully to avoid breaking it. Make sure all the white clips come off with the panel
        step 12- if you install the ECU in the location shown then the side panel will go in ok , otherwise the wiring will foul. The ECU is used to power the trailer lights directly. Connecting trailer lights direct to the lights on modern cars will result in toasting the body's ECU , which is big $$$ to replace.
        step 15 - dont remove the B pillar plastic panel , there is enough room under it to run the cabling.
        step 19 - this is a tricky one. The connector secondary lock is the same color plastic as the connector , and this must be lifted / removed before removing the pin no.5 . it took me ages to see it and i only found it by looking and comparing the new connector shell supplied in the packet. You need a very small sharp screwdriver to remove the connector lock. Once this is lifted by a few mm the pins can be removed.
        step 25 - they dont supply a guide wire as described , you can use a piece of stiff stranded wire about 40cm long .The new orange wire and its cover are a bit large to fit into the access port , so lubricate with water or vaseline to ensure it goes in and you dont lose the draw wire.
        step 29 - they supplied me the wrong bracket and trailer connector so i ended up screwing my 7 pin flat connector to the bracket before fitting. Use of the flat 7 pin will allow you to connect an aftermarket trailer loss alarm to the car - there is a magnet and reed switch built into the base and cover lid , connected to 2 extra pins at the sides.

        While all the interior panels were removed i ran some extra wires to the back of the car from the glovebox-

        1 - a 6mm wire which i will use for adding a fridge socket , and for powering some camping lights.
        2 - a 4mm wire which i will use for powering the trailer brakes. this will attach to the Blue wire in the trailer harness
        3 - a 7 core trailer cable , which i will use for powering relays for lights , reverse beeper , etc. With this cable I connected one of its wires to the brake light wire so i can use it to trigger the electric brake controller under the dash. You can pick up the brake signal from the junction box somewhere but i dont know where. Doing it this way will ensure that is wire is protected by the inline fuses fitted to the factory harness and the lights will not interfere with the trailer sway function.

        any questions just ask
        Hi, thanks for your post, I am in the process of installing the trailer wiring harness and am stuck on item 19, can find the ip / jb8 connectors are you able to assist?

        Many thanks
        Stan

        Comment


        • #5
          from memory that connector is under the kickpanel , have you taken it off ? IP stands for Instrument panel , JB is Junction Block , and its an 8 pin connector , shown as the bottom left hand side of the junction block
          Last edited by White One; 26-12-2017, 02:39 PM. Reason: extra info
          2016 GX , in White

          Comment


          • Spook1205
            Spook1205 commented
            Editing a comment
            I had a look in my kick panel but couldn’t 100% remember what I did under there. Was going to take s pic but it’s been 2 years since I installed wiring harness.
            I’ll see if I can see something with instructions
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